Tips For Finding A Good Brake Mechanic
by Douglas Samuelson - email:  dsamuelson@frii.com

 
The brake system on a motor vehicle is the most critical system on the vehicle.  If the engine or transmission fails, you can coast to the side of the road, but if the brake system fails you could be in for big trouble.

Complete brake system failure is uncommon.  Most of the vehicles on the road today are equipped with a dual brake system which will isolate the front brakes from the rear in the case of a sudden loss of brake fluid such as a ruptured brake hose.  In this case, the unaffected (front or rear) system will provide enough braking to stop the vehicle.  Most vehicles are equipped with a warning light system that will inform the driver of a malfunction.  This warning light should never be ignored.  Most vehicles are also equipped with brake pad wear sensors that will emit a squealing noise when the pads are worn to a point where they should be replaced.  If the pads or brake shoes become worn beyond that point, metal to metal contact will usually destroy the brake rotor or drum.  I have actually seen brake rotors that were worn so thin that they disintegrated and allowed the caliper piston to blow out of the caliper.  There is no excuse for allowing this to happen.

Choosing the right brake mechanic or shop is critical if you want a safe, properly functioning brake system.  Although price is important, it should not be the number one priority.  Avoid the shops that advertise a complete 4 wheel brake job for $99.98, I assure you that no shop could remain in business doing brake jobs at that price.  If you "fall" for that advertised price, you will end with a repair bill of $300 or more.  I firmly believe that the well established, independent shops are the best way to go.  A reputable shop will give you an estimate and in most cases the final repair cost will not exceed the estimate. 

When the first brake replacement is needed on your vehicle, it is usually only necessary to replace the front brake pads (especially on passenger cars).  In my many years of experience, I have found that the rear brakes will normally outlast 2 sets of front brakes.  This is because the greater percentage of the braking force is supplied by the front brakes.  That is why most cars are equipped with disc brakes on the front, and drum brakes on the rear.  However, I always recommend pulling the rear drums for inspection, cleaning the brake dust and manually adjusting the rear brakes if they are of the drum type (the self adjusters will not maintain a "full" brake pedal).

It is also not necessary to replace the brake hardware (springs, pins, etc), the disc brake calipers, or wheel cylinders, if they are not leaking or binding.  A good mechanic will know when it is time to replace these parts.  There are a lot of so-called technicians who are nothing more than parts installers.  If the brake system does not shake or pulsate the steering wheel or the back of the seat when braking before the brake work to be done is performed, if the rotors and drums are not grooved, it is not necessary to "turn" them on a brake lathe.  Turning them prematurely will only shorten the life of the drum or rotor (most can only be turned one time).

Using good quality brake pads and lining is very important.  A few dollars saved using cheap parts will result in shortened brake life, poor braking, and a lot of brake dust on your nice aluminum wheels.  If you cannot obtain an application engineered after market brake pad or lining, I strongly recommend using OEM parts. 

If a brake shop will not allow you to enter the shop to inspect your vehicle when the wheels and drums are removed I would tell them to put the wheels back on and I would look for another shop.  In fact it would be a good idea to ask before starting the job.  I understand that most shops do not want customers watching the work performed, but it would only take a minute or two for the technician or service manger to walk the customer around the vehicle and escort him or her back to the waiting area.  If nothing else, ask to see the old parts before you pay the bill.  I have heard a lot of "horror stories" where customers were charged for parts that were not replaced.  I am sure that these are isolated cases but as the old saying goes "a few rotten apples spoil the whole barrel".